24 vintages of Chateau Cheval Blanc
Sunday December 02nd 2007, 11:52 pm
Filed under: Wine Discussion, Event Discussion

It’s not too often you get to attend a soirée tasting twenty-four vintages of the prized French monster, Chateau Cheval Blanc. On Saturday, November 17, I did just that. Well, I didn’t really do it, I just had the opportunity to report it. And when you top that with raising $50,000 for cancer research, now you have my kind of party.

Here are the statistics: 10 people at $5,000 per person gathered at the incredibly difficult to find (for me) domicile of well-known philanthropist, Billy Ray Hearn. (note to self: don’t use Mapquest again). There is a reception followed by a four course dinner and each course is complimented with six vertical vintages of the Bordeaux beauty. Your guest chef for the evening is Cathy A. Lewis.

We’ll take you through the evening—course by course.

Reception:

Food: Smoked Salmon and Gruyere Pomponnettes
Bilinis with Tennessee Paddlefish Caviar, Chive Crème Fraiche.

Wine: 1985 Salon Blanc de Blanc

The mood is light and mild. Anticipating a pleasurable night ahead. Chef Lewis had a staff of four and as I sat in the kitchen, I admired her calmness and adored the aromas. I checked my wallet to see if I had cash on hand to join the party (I don’t) or considered asking Mr. Hearn if he takes American Express (he doesn’t).

First Course- 7:15pm

Food: Duxcelle of Porcini Mushrooms and Pancetta with Cauliflower Puree and Parsley Oil.
Wines: 1934, 1937, 1943, 1945, 1953, 1955

The conversation was two-fold: How were these wines holding up and what was happening in the world during this time period? Hoyt Hill was the Wine Master behind the scenes. Meticulous in his pouring his descriptions of the 1934 and 37 were spot on. The ‘34 was hanging on for dear life. Ingred Burgman at 60. I won’t elaborate… The ’37 had seen better days.
The 1945 is tremendous. Low yields produced incredibly sexy, sophisticated, incredibly balanced wines. The ‘53 was chalky and the ‘55 was very nice but couldn’t hold up to that ’45. Many of the group enjoyed ’53 as intelligent discussion permeated the room. The pacing was calculated. Not rushing along, the staff let the guests discuss, debate and get to know each other.

Second Course:

Food: Confit of Magret Duck, Melted Leeks, Gigandes Beans, Roasted Red Pepper Gastrique
Wine: 1947, 1959, 1961,1964,1970,1982

Arguably the greatest wine ever made—the 1947. Unbelievable not just in taste but also in the fact that it is it technically should be a flawed wine. Neglected vineyards due to the war allowed the soil, the vines, (and a little help from God) to create a masterpiece. It has much a more vibrant personality than the ‘45. Sixty years old and still getting as much out of life as possible. The ’59 and ’61 seem very similar. Cousins perhaps but very inviting and young? Not sure how much better it would get. The ’64 was a magnum so it is younger and it was the earthiest to this point in the dinner. The 1970 was quite grassy in a bad way. Not a very good vintage and it showed. Lastly, the 1982 was chewy in the best way possible. It is an adventure that wants to challenge you, bite you and make you satisfied that you worked a little for your wine. The group seemed to enjoy the 47 and 61, hands down. The laughter increased with even some singing of old Meatloaf. Only in Music City!

Third Course:

Food: Seared Colorado Lamb Loin Medallions, Gaufrette Potatoes, Rosemary Garlic Aioli, Sauteed Figs and Fig Balsamic Reduction.

Wine: 1983, 1985, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1990

The 1983 still tastes young. Compared to where we just were, it wants to grow up. The ’85 is showing some muscle. I like the balance here with tannin/fruit but it has much more personality. The ’89 stood out as very herbaceous and leathery. This could be my standout for what it is to become in addition to what it is now. The group tended to lean towards the ’83, and ‘90.

Fourth Course:

Food: A Selection of Artisanal Cheeses

Wine: 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001

This was almost my favorite flight just because of the potential. The ’95, 96, 2000 and 2001 to me show how glorious a wine is now and yet to become. I am amazed at the depth and how these wines speak the future. Like a biblical prophet these wines are God-breathed and tell us that life is good, and the future it alive and well.

The patrons tasted the wines of their lives but the true beneficiaries were the fortunate organizations who receive the donations through l’Ete du Vin. My personal thanks thanks to Mr. Hearn and Executive Director of l’Ete du Vin, Mike Haney for allowing me to report on this unprecedented event. There will be more about ‘Ete du Vin in an upcoming issue of Nashville WinePress. If you’d like to know more about l’Ete du Vin, please visit their website at
http://www.nashvillewineauction.com/

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Cru Beaujolais@Ombi
Tuesday November 13th 2007, 10:27 pm
Filed under: Wine Discussion, Event Discussion

Cru Beaujolais was the star on Monday, November 12 as 45 strong came out to hear Yann Bourigault discuss how Georges Duboeuf is the King of Beaujolais—then we tasted why. In all it was nine wines—two whites, seven reds and all with subtle nuances that enlightened even the professional palate. Brouilly, Julienas, Morgon, Fleurie might not be household names for Americans but they should be. Like children in a large family, these styles/areas bring unique personalities to the wines—some with pronounced floral and fruit notes like the Chiroubles while others displayed sophisticated and seemless balance like the Moulin-A-Vent (absolutely gorgeous by the way). All of the wines retail for under $20 here in Nashville which means for all of you readers from other states, it must be incredibly cheaper (we get taxed up the wazoo here). This is the first event we co-sponsored with Ombi and Village Wines. Hoyt Hill is the owner of Village Wines and he provided some excellent backdrop of information to Mr. Bourigault’s presentation and Ombi owners Kim Totzke and Laura Wilson were ready for the onslaught of diners after the event. In fact, I encouraged the group to stay for dinner and get Laura in the weeds in the kitchen and that she would like nothing more. Laura is a bit too skilled to let that happen to her but the guests seemed to give it their best effort!
Cru Beaujolais is an inexpensive gem that is overlooked due to Burgundy’s big guns—Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Now is your chance. It’s not just for thanksgiving mind you but i would suggest trying some now and some in the summer. Hopefully, there will be another of these in the near future. Thank you to all who came out and discovered how diverse and interesting this wine can be.

jimmy



Our most recent “12″ Event at Bistro 215
Saturday November 10th 2007, 10:23 pm
Filed under: Wine Discussion, Event Discussion

To all those who made it to our “12″ event, you know what a good time it was. The folks at Bistro 215 did some kickin food and helped provide 12 wines from the current issue for only $15. GM Garth Nash is primarily responsible for that so when (and I do mean when) you eat at Bistro 215, thank him personally for everything he does. One Pinot Noir that we tasted was listed for $68 retail. When are you EVER going to be able to taste something like that along with 11 other wines for that cost? Exactly..

A few things to mention about the night:

I felt the Domaine Gachot Monot Cote De Nuits-Villages ($33 with score of 89) was tasting the best that night—or maybe it was just my mood. A pretty unassuming wine with delicacy. I think in my review i said something about being sexy, sultry, etc…and it is.
The turnout was awesome. Everyone was having a great time and trying a little bit of everything. The people of Tennessee Repertory Theatre were my special guests as i try to tell everyone about our advertisers who KEEP THE MAGAZINE FREE!! That’s my goal and if you love quality theater, it doesn’t get better than this in Middle Tenessee. Check out their season on their website (http://www.tennesseerep.org/) and go see a show. This is the perfect thing to do when you have that relative in town who you really don’t like spending time with. You take them there and you leave feeling like you’ve experienced something together.
I also made an announcement concerning a Winepress Minute that will be coming to Mix 92.9 and Jack FM. I will be doing one minute wine reviews that you’ll find quite entertaining and educational. More later as it develops but it might either be right before Thanksgiving or the first week in December. Join the email list and be the first to find out!

Lastly, if you are reading this, I would love to hear something from you. I have some concerns that no one can write comments, technically speaking, but i would love you to prove me wrong!! Reply with a comment and let me know if there is anything you have questions on or suggestions for this blog.

Salut!!

jimmy



6/8/07 - Rodney Strong Wine Dinner-Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Sunday June 24th 2007, 8:33 pm
Filed under: Food Discussion

Pairing food with wine is creating art - there are some guidelines of composition, but it also takes passion and intuition. When done well, food and wine pairing can be as sublime as a masterpiece painting or sculpture. In Nashville, there are some great venues that showcase the epicurean art of pairing. One such establishment is New Orleans-based Ruth’s Chris Steak House, which features a semi-regular series featuring the wines of various winemakers and wineries paired with the steakhouse’s reputable cuisine. At the most recent event on June 6th, an intimate group of 25 gathered together at Ruth’s Chris Steak House for a casually classy five-course dinner paired with the wines of California stalwart, Rodney Strong.

After a few welcoming words from the vineyard representative, Heather Hanks Kathey, the evening began with the Charlotte’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc paired with mini crabtinis. This lump crabmeat was dressed in a delicious remoulade made with creole mustard was impressive as the creaminess of the sauce neutralized some of the wine’s acidity, creating a refreshing, yet slightly sweet, effect.

The second course consisted of seared scallops in a parsley pesto paired with the Chalk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. The scallops were wonderfully prepared and very artistically presented atop small white stones reminiscent of sea salt and with a mesh-wrapped lemon tied with ribbon. The Chalk Hill is a classic butter and oak California Chard. Although a faint metallic flavor resulted from the combination, most likely from the distinct presence of garlic in the scallop dish, each element was appealing in and of itself.

The first entree course was lamb chops, which filled the room with a mouth-watering savory aroma upon arrival. The lamb was paired with the 2003 Jane’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, which tasted young and will likely reach its potential in three to four years. The fatty meat paired with the slightly tart, bright-berried wine created a simple yet lovely effect reminiscent of blueberries and cream. Next, the Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was showcased on its own. This estate vineyard wine is a lighter-style Cab with notes of plum and cherry. The interlude allowed for guests to enjoy the wine on its own, and also to digest a bit between entree courses.

The second entree course was filet mignon with shrimp. The dish was finished with a sizzling barbeque sauce that added a great auditory element. Both the meat and shrimp were very flavorful, although some may have preferred the filet a bit more rare. The dish was paired with the Alden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a wonderfully yummy cab. The tannins of the wine successfully cut through the muscle and fat of the filet, thus releasing additional flavors, without overpowering the shrimp (probably because of the barbeque sauce). Unfortunately, the mashed potatoes and creamed spinach side dishes intended to accompany this course were accidentally brought out long before the course itself.

Dessert was the aptly named Chocolate Sin Cake paired with Gentleman’s Port. The cake was decadently rich and delicious. However, the Gentleman’s Port is a lighter style port and after playing around with the wines from previous courses, our table decided that they preferred to pair the cake with the more-pronounced Alden.

Aside from great food and wine, a highlight of the evening was the opportunity to speak with both the representatives from Rodney Strong and Best Brands. They offered unique insights into the operation, from the history of Rodney Strong to the soil composition of specific Rodney Strong vineyards. Heather and a few others circulated around the room throughout the night, answering questions and ensuring that everyone was enjoying themselves.

Overall, the event was a whole lot of fun, peppered with a bit of education and promotion. The dinners are $99 per guest plus tax and gratuity, which is a pretty good deal considering the well-sized portions, hefty pours, enjoyable ambiance, and polished service. Be sure not to miss out on upcoming pairing dinners at Ruth’s Chris (check back with us for specifics soon!)



Recipe for MAPLE PORK CHOPS WITH APRICOT SAGE BUTTER
Monday June 11th 2007, 10:29 pm
Filed under: Food Discussion

MAPLE PORK CHOPS WITH APRICOT SAGE BUTTER
(Pairs with Beans Creek Stone Fort White)

For the Pork Chops: 3 cups water
2 cups apple cider
½ cup maple syrup
2 tablespoons salt
2 cloves garlic, cracked with knife blade
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
1 bay leaf
4 bone-in pork loin chops, about 1-1/2 inches thick
Olive oil as needed

Apricot Sage Butter: 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons apricot preserves
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
½ teaspoon kosher salt

For the pork chops: Combine all ingredients except pork and oil in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Allow brine to cool fully before proceeding. Place pork in a glass container and pour brine over top. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or up to 12 hours. Remove pork from brine and preheat grill or broiler. Brush the chops with a scant coating of oil. Grill or broil to an internal temperature of 155 degrees. Allow to rest in a warm place for 5-10 minutes. Top each chop with a dollop of Apricot Sage Butter just before serving.

For the Apricot Sage Butter: In a small bowl, work the softened butter together with the apricot preserves, sage and salt. Refrigerate in a small container, but allow butter to come back to room temperature before using. Serves 4.



Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Cosentino Wine Dinner
Thursday May 31st 2007, 8:53 pm
Filed under: Nashville WinePress Magazine news



l’Ete Du Vin’s Premiere Tasting and Auction on Cam!!
Tuesday May 08th 2007, 10:16 pm
Filed under: Event Discussion



Palm Bay Imports Tasting@ Nero’s Grill
Tuesday May 08th 2007, 4:33 pm
Filed under: Nashville WinePress Magazine news

On April 23rd , Palm Bay Imports hosted a fabulous wine event at the new Nero’s Grill in Green Hills. A few of the wines tasted that early evening were from the current issue of Nashville WinePress. Highlights included the Reserve line from Santa Rita, Faustino Rosé, Col D’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino, Condesa de Leganza Crianza and the Bertani Amarone. These are the currently available vintages are here in Middle Tennessee.

This FREE event also included delightful appetizers from Nero’s Grill that were so delicious, I stayed for dinner. I highly recommend their Tuna app. My mouth is watering just typing it—honestly!

This is another example of Palm Bay’s commitment to excellence and spreading the wine word—free wine, free food—that’s my kind of party!

Lastly, I cannot recommend enough the 2002 Condesa de Leganza Crianza. It retails around here for about $12 and is one of the best wines under $15. In the magazine, it received a collective score of 88 from all the tasters. I personally rated it much higher because I rarely find a wine with such joyous fruit and depth in that price range. If you want to try something different from your usual visit to the wine store and it’s in your budget, buy it!
If you have had this wine, please give us your thoughts here!



Notes on Chateau Palmer
Thursday April 12th 2007, 11:09 pm
Filed under: Nashville WinePress Magazine news, Wine Discussion, Event Discussion

On March 10th, I was privileged to be a part of the “back room” tasting of 27 vintages of third growth, Chateau Palmer. My article in Nashville WinePress describes the fundraising side of l’Ete du Vin in the midst of the day’s events. What’s listed here are my notes from the wine tasting itself. You have to imagine 3 people huddling around one glass of wine savoring each sip then writing our notes. Rather comical but for wine geeks, it’s a once in a lifetime moment.

Flights 1989-1981

The 1982 was my rock star for this flight. It stood apart for me being extremely well balanced with dark berries as your prominent fruit. It seems to have come into its own and is getting ready to peak. The ’81 was similar but the ’83 had some zip to it. The GM of Chateau Palmer, Thomas Duroux, felt the 1985 was his Rock Star. And honestly, I wouldn’t attempt to argue with him. He would know best!

Flights 1979-1970

The ’75 has personality, the ’71 still felt young but the 1970 is the sexy centerfold with lots of vegetables especially green pepper. Tannins and finish were huge and I like where this is settling right now.

Flights 1966, ’61, ’59, ’57, ’55, ‘53

The 1961 is a legend and it showed its status here. It’s 36 yrs old and does not reveal any signs of dying soon. The ’53 is incredibly balanced and powerful. The ’57 had the overpowering nose of bacon fat. No other vintage had it like this one. It was quite different.

Flights 1945, 1934, 1928, 1924, 1921, 1910

I cannot tell you enough wonderful things about the 1945. It was ready—finally! It only took 62 years! It’s decadent, delicious, and harmonious and is probably the best sip of wine I have ever tasted! Amazing to taste this and then go to a 1982 and say, “wow, the ’82 is young!”
The ’24 had a lot of butterscotch notes, the ’21 was corked unfortunately and the 1910 (which was made before WWI!!) was a lot like tea. It was drinkable but was more of a novelty than say the 1945. In fact, the ’45, 34, and ’28 were working better than the other 2 vintages.

There you have it! They always say, “You never forget your first 1945 Chateau Palmer.” Ok. They don’t say it. I am. It will be my only 1945 but it was spectacular and I am thankful to l’Ete du Vin for giving me the opportunity.

A Bientot!